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Hooked: A Connecticut Seafood Celebration
Our summer platter is loaded with the freshest, most delicious offerings from nearby waters. Time to dig in and enjoy!
There is something about summer in Connecticut that draws us seaward for big, open views, a whiff of salt air and a fresh piece of fish or pile of clams. In fact, when it comes to seafood in Connecticut, the possibilities are just about endless. Whether it's fancy you want, or the freshest of the fresh, or just a simple shore dinner, we've got it covered. What follows is a primer for your summer seafood hunger. Pick a few that look good to you and get into the swim!
LOBSTER ROLLS
In Massachusetts and points north, a lobster roll consists of lobster salad-with mayo, celery, tarragon and whatever else the kitchen fancies-on a roll. Or a baguette. Or ciabatta. Or a Twinkie. A true Connecticut lobster roll consists only of lobster, swimming in melted butter, stuffed into a toasted split roll, either hot dog or hamburger. Many eateries around the state hedge their bets by serving both kinds.
Abbott's Lobster in the Rough, Noank. Their way is a perfectly round stack-o-lobster on a toasted hamburger roll. Let the butter drip down your fingers as you enjoy the "coast of Maine" setting and mop up with the Wash 'n' Dri's. (860/536-7719)
Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale, Madison and Westbrook. Route 1 classics. Don't worry about studying the menu (although everything is good). Enjoy the hot lobster roll and buy the T-shirt. (203/245-7289 and 860/669-0767)
Cove Fish Market, Mystic. A big lobster tank in the market is a promising sign of plenty. Lobster salad roll with just celery and mayo on a toasted hot dog roll is a winner. But so is the quarter pound of buttery lobster meat on a roll. Find the Cove by spotting the red-and-white fishing boat on the Route 1 roadside. (860/536-0061)
Blue Lobster, Berlin. Hot lobster on a potato roll with chips on the side is the favorite in this little spot on the Berlin Turnpike. Steamers or fish-and-chips follow close behind, and the cup of chowder is always just $1 more. (860/828-5833)
Knapp's Landing, Stratford. Hard to find on the outskirts of an industrial area, this pretty place is worth the journey for the water view over the top of a lobster roll. (203/378-5999)
CLAM SHACKS
Picnic tables and yellow jackets. White menu boards with blue letters. A voice over the loudspeaker calling, "Number 73!" even if you're the only person on the premises. Hot dogs and soft ice cream as supporting cast for fried clams and scallops, for chowder and lobster rolls. That's a clam shack in a Connecticut summer.
Johnny Ad's, Old Saybrook. So gray and humbly nondescript on the side of the Post Road that you'll probably drive right by-even when you know where it is. Great fish-and-chips, crunchy-crusted fried clams, best coleslaw of all shacks. So why are so many people ordering the giant hot dogs and looking so happy? (860/388-4032)
Clam Castle, Madison. All red and yellow and American flag, this 1960s standby has clamshell gardens and lots of room for outdoor tables in a picnic grove. No shredded lobster scraps here, lobster rolls are filled with knuckle meat the size of World Series rings and the whole thumbs of claws. Onion rings are airy and belly clams boffo. (203/245-4911)
Lobster Landing, Clinton. A one-room shack at the end of the road, where it meets the water-and almost falls in. Peeling white paint shingles, peeling red trim. The wooden walkway waves like a sidewalk in the desert sun, so do the sides of the shack. "Fresh-picked lobster with lemon and butter on a toasted sub roll $12" listed on the blackboard menu. Perch on a white plastic porch deck chair, toss your empty soft-drink cans over a buoy into a string bag. (860/669-2005)
Overton's, Norwalk. White boxy shack shares small parking space on Norwalk Harbor with the dressy Mediterranean seafood restaurant Harbor Lights. Order at the walk-up windows and climb to the deck overlooking yachts and yachties. Whole clams are small and sweet and cheap. Hot dogs are cheap-but the sauerkraut's extra. Two pieces of batter-fried cod with coleslaw, and fries or onion rings cost just $7. Mr. Overton's Ice Cream and Yogurt Parlor is up the hill.
Stowe's Seafood, West Haven. Longtime seaside favorite anchored by, well, anchors (along with nets and buoys), and serving longtime seaside favorites such as fish-and-chips, hot lobster rolls and chowders, including (gasp) a tomato-based Manhattan. (203/ 934-1991)
Sea Swirl, Mystic. One-time Carvel stand between Route 1 and Kelly Tires, it's Connecticut's best-known shack. "Milk or broth clam chowder" on the board. Teens slurping soft cones with sprinkles or Buck's mud ice cream at picnic tables by the water. But really, why would anyone order anything but the hot, fat, sweet, crispy fried clams? (860/536-3452)
Sea View Snack Bar, Mystic. Sea green umbrellas shade you from summer sun as you snack on fried clams and scallops from Stonington, or generously portioned lobster salad on a foot-long roll at this family-owned (the granddaughters man the takeout window) Route 27 standby that locals would like to keep a secret. Get a close-up view of Mystic Seaport's docks through swiveling "big-eye" binoculars at the river's edge. (860/572-0096)
RAW BARS
These displays of fresh shellfish and other treats may be add-ons to full-service restaurants, but they're worth a trip in and of themselves.
Acqua Oyster Bar & Grill, Vernon. "Connecticut's Largest Oyster Bar" weighs in with reps from Canada, Cape Cod, Washington and Alaska, and offers nori-wrapped yellowfin tuna as well. (860/872-4200)
Max's Oyster Bar, West Hartford. "The Wondrous Hi-Rise of Shellfish" leads the way at this fashionable fishhouse, and the fried calamari keeps 'em coming back. (860/236-6299)
Elm Street Oyster House, Greenwich. Oyster lovers belly up to the bar for a half dozen or more bicoastal bivalves, pairing them with horseradish, cocktail or mignonette sauces. (203/629-5795)
Westbrook Lobster, Yalesville. Sit at the bar where the talented Rachel shucks your choices in front of you, or order the Raw Bar Combo (three Long Island littlenecks, three Mystic oysters, four shrimp with cocktail sauce) at your table. (203/265-5071). There's another Westbrook Lobster in Clinton (860/664-9464), but for some reason none in Westbrook.
Ocean Drive, South Norwalk. This oyster bar's Big Kahuna satisfies up to four surfers with a tier of shrimp, clams, mussels and oysters. Follow with a kettle of steamed littlenecks if you're still hungry. (203/855-1665)
CHOWDER
Rhode Island named its own chowder, which Connecticut timidly calls "clear broth chowder." Boston, and points north, claim "New England clam chowder," which Connecticut timidly calls "creamy clam chowder." Here are some chowders we might claim for our own.
Boom, Stonington and Westbrook. Tiny, tiny pieces of diced sweet potatoes in a classic creamy clam chowder add an intriguing depth and a bit of color to the often too-pale potage. They call it North Carolina chowder, but they don't have to. (860/535-2588 and 860/399-2322)
Edd's Place, Westbrook. A fistful of thyme, a generous helping of clams and a touch of sherry make this the memorable creamy chowder you'll drive miles to eat. Take it at a table by the water, with a slice of Mom's blueberry pie to follow. (860/399-9498)
Carmen Anthony Fishhouse and Steakhouse, Waterbury, Avon, New Haven, Woodbury, Wethersfield. Thick and creamy, this clam chowder is a perennial "Best of Connecticut" winner for good reason. (203/757-3040 [Waterbury])
Guilford Mooring, Guilford. Down at the town marina, chowder fans spoon up New England-style, watch the boats go by, look at the lobster tank and think of staying a few more hours. (203/458-2921)
Kitchen Little, Mystic. Made "from scratch" in a tiny kitchen, Flo's Rhode Island-style chowder features fresh ("never canned") local clams flavored with fresh basil and white pepper. Though KL is basically a breakfast place, many happily sit in its riverside rock garden and enjoy the chowder at all hours. (860/536-2122)
JoJo's Fish House, Danbury. Listed as "chowda" on the menu, this outstanding entry from a newcomer restaurant is creamier than Rhode Island style, thinner than New England style, with a peck of clams in every spoonful and a whiff of smoky bacon in every bowl. (203/746-0037)
Lenny's Indian Head Inn, Branford. Clear broth, bright flavor, a good balance of clams and potatoes-this winning family recipe is best savored on the deck overlooking the salt marsh. (203/488-1500)
Jasper White's Summer Shack, Mohegan Sun Casino. New England clam chowder by Boston's King of Seafood is a sure bet in these parts. (860/862-9500).
CHOWDER HINT:
When you order chowder from a takeout window, ask the server to scoop it from the bottom of the pot. Broth and potatoes rise to the top. Clams sink.
SPECIALTIES OF THE HOUSE
Have you tried . . .
Dover sole filleted tableside at Ocean 211 in Stamford. Served with lemon butter and caper sauce. Simple. Simply perfect. (203/973-0494)
Seafood Ambrosia-shrimp, scallops, crabmeat and cod under a buttery seafood stuffing-at S&P Oyster Co., where wide windows overlook the Mystic River bridge. Start with a couple of oyster shooters in the upstairs bar. (860/536-2674)
Seafood paella, topped with sofrito and served in a copper pot at Pacifico, New Haven. (203/772-4002)
Trout bleu or meuniere at Hopkins Inn, New Preston. Scooped live from the tank when you order, it's the closest thing to catching it yourself. (860/868-7295)
Swordfish Gorgonzola at Scribner's, Milford. On the menu for years, with very good reason. (203/878-7019)
Lobster soup at Carole Peck's Good News Cafe in Woodbury. It's rich and creamy, with huge chunks of lobster. (203/266-4663)
Seafood Portugais at No Fish Today in Hartford. A shellfish chorus over linguine. (860/244-2100)
Chowder Pot Platter at USS Chowder Pot III, Branford. The boat-sized fry-up for hungry landlubbers. (203/489-2356)
Beer-battered scrod and chips at Bill's Seafood Restaurant, by the "Singing Bridge" in Westbrook. (860/399-7224)
FISH MARKETS AND MORE
Stonington Seafood Harvesters, on the Town Dock, Stonington. A unique market. There's no staff, just an honor system that's worked for more than 30 years. Freezer cases hold scallops from the Stonington fleet's Patty Jo, local flounder, plus cod fillets, jumbo shrimp and halibut. Snatch your catch, slip cash or a check into the Money Slot. Make change from a box in one of the freezer cases. Patty Jo scallops and flounder are menu favorites at neighboring Boom-a couple of wharfs away in Dodson Boatyard. (860/535-8342)
Conte's Market & Grill, Westport. A fish market with history. Westport's Dean Conte is the fourth-generation scion of a family who've been combing New York's fish markets four times a week since 1894. Everything in the market is available in the restaurant-lemon sole, wild Alaskan salmon, yellowfin tuna, as well as everything on the handsome raw bar's "Grand Plateau." (203/226-3474)
Rowayton Seafood Market, Rowayton. On the banks of Five Mile River, next to the restaurant of the same name, this well-stocked seafood emporium has a side window for seafood bites. Take your steamed mussels, littlenecks on the half shell, or a hot and crispy clam roll up to the deck and ponder the market's trivia questions of the day, e.g., "Where are shrimps' hearts?" (203/838-7473)
Flanders Fish Market & Restaurant, East Lyme. A little fish market that grew like Topsy to include a large dining room and wrap-around decks, not to mention cooking classes and a cookbook by owner Paul Formica. Occasional exotica like wahoo or black sole from Holland appear in the display case; alligator, frog's legs, conch available on request. Stop in the restaurant for fish (pollack)-and-chips. Stock up on containers of lobster bisque, and chowders either clear or creamy. (860/739-8866)
Fjord Fisheries, Cos Cob. Fish market as summer destination. The owners here have their own Long Island Sound oyster beds to help fill display counters already crowded with East and West Coast seafood, plus the occasional Australian barramundi and Scandinavian kfraftor (crawfish) in season. The grocery section stocks Norwegian items (fiskeboller, gjetost), and fresh baguettes daily. Board one of the charter boats for onboard clambakes or Sunday brunch buffets. Sandy's Summer Stand in the back parking lot offers Connecticut-grown strawberries, blueberries, corn, tomatoes and so on, along with New Jersey produce to fill in the gaps. To top it all off, Mr. Kato's al fresco ramen stand is open on summer evenings, and his takeout sushi counter is just inside Fjord's side door.
Ah, sushi. That's a fish of another stripe . . . and a tale for another time.
Hooked: A Connecticut Seafood Celebration
Our summer platter is loaded with the freshest, most delicious offerings from nearby waters. Time to dig in and enjoy!
There is something about summer in Connecticut that draws us seaward for big, open views, a whiff of salt air and a fresh piece of fish or pile of clams. In fact, when it comes to seafood in Connecticut, the possibilities are just about endless. Whether it's fancy you want, or the freshest of the fresh, or just a simple shore dinner, we've got it covered. What follows is a primer for your summer seafood hunger. Pick a few that look good to you and get into the swim!
LOBSTER ROLLS
In Massachusetts and points north, a lobster roll consists of lobster salad-with mayo, celery, tarragon and whatever else the kitchen fancies-on a roll. Or a baguette. Or ciabatta. Or a Twinkie. A true Connecticut lobster roll consists only of lobster, swimming in melted butter, stuffed into a toasted split roll, either hot dog or hamburger. Many eateries around the state hedge their bets by serving both kinds.
Abbott's Lobster in the Rough, Noank. Their way is a perfectly round stack-o-lobster on a toasted hamburger roll. Let the butter drip down your fingers as you enjoy the "coast of Maine" setting and mop up with the Wash 'n' Dri's. (860/536-7719)
Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale, Madison and Westbrook. Route 1 classics. Don't worry about studying the menu (although everything is good). Enjoy the hot lobster roll and buy the T-shirt. (203/245-7289 and 860/669-0767)
Cove Fish Market, Mystic. A big lobster tank in the market is a promising sign of plenty. Lobster salad roll with just celery and mayo on a toasted hot dog roll is a winner. But so is the quarter pound of buttery lobster meat on a roll. Find the Cove by spotting the red-and-white fishing boat on the Route 1 roadside. (860/536-0061)
Blue Lobster, Berlin. Hot lobster on a potato roll with chips on the side is the favorite in this little spot on the Berlin Turnpike. Steamers or fish-and-chips follow close behind, and the cup of chowder is always just $1 more. (860/828-5833)
Knapp's Landing, Stratford. Hard to find on the outskirts of an industrial area, this pretty place is worth the journey for the water view over the top of a lobster roll. (203/378-5999)
CLAM SHACKS
Picnic tables and yellow jackets. White menu boards with blue letters. A voice over the loudspeaker calling, "Number 73!" even if you're the only person on the premises. Hot dogs and soft ice cream as supporting cast for fried clams and scallops, for chowder and lobster rolls. That's a clam shack in a Connecticut summer.
Johnny Ad's, Old Saybrook. So gray and humbly nondescript on the side of the Post Road that you'll probably drive right by-even when you know where it is. Great fish-and-chips, crunchy-crusted fried clams, best coleslaw of all shacks. So why are so many people ordering the giant hot dogs and looking so happy? (860/388-4032)
Clam Castle, Madison. All red and yellow and American flag, this 1960s standby has clamshell gardens and lots of room for outdoor tables in a picnic grove. No shredded lobster scraps here, lobster rolls are filled with knuckle meat the size of World Series rings and the whole thumbs of claws. Onion rings are airy and belly clams boffo. (203/245-4911)
Lobster Landing, Clinton. A one-room shack at the end of the road, where it meets the water-and almost falls in. Peeling white paint shingles, peeling red trim. The wooden walkway waves like a sidewalk in the desert sun, so do the sides of the shack. "Fresh-picked lobster with lemon and butter on a toasted sub roll $12" listed on the blackboard menu. Perch on a white plastic porch deck chair, toss your empty soft-drink cans over a buoy into a string bag. (860/669-2005)
Overton's, Norwalk. White boxy shack shares small parking space on Norwalk Harbor with the dressy Mediterranean seafood restaurant Harbor Lights. Order at the walk-up windows and climb to the deck overlooking yachts and yachties. Whole clams are small and sweet and cheap. Hot dogs are cheap-but the sauerkraut's extra. Two pieces of batter-fried cod with coleslaw, and fries or onion rings cost just $7. Mr. Overton's Ice Cream and Yogurt Parlor is up the hill.
Stowe's Seafood, West Haven. Longtime seaside favorite anchored by, well, anchors (along with nets and buoys), and serving longtime seaside favorites such as fish-and-chips, hot lobster rolls and chowders, including (gasp) a tomato-based Manhattan. (203/ 934-1991)
Sea Swirl, Mystic. One-time Carvel stand between Route 1 and Kelly Tires, it's Connecticut's best-known shack. "Milk or broth clam chowder" on the board. Teens slurping soft cones with sprinkles or Buck's mud ice cream at picnic tables by the water. But really, why would anyone order anything but the hot, fat, sweet, crispy fried clams? (860/536-3452)
Sea View Snack Bar, Mystic. Sea green umbrellas shade you from summer sun as you snack on fried clams and scallops from Stonington, or generously portioned lobster salad on a foot-long roll at this family-owned (the granddaughters man the takeout window) Route 27 standby that locals would like to keep a secret. Get a close-up view of Mystic Seaport's docks through swiveling "big-eye" binoculars at the river's edge. (860/572-0096)
RAW BARS
These displays of fresh shellfish and other treats may be add-ons to full-service restaurants, but they're worth a trip in and of themselves.
Acqua Oyster Bar & Grill, Vernon. "Connecticut's Largest Oyster Bar" weighs in with reps from Canada, Cape Cod, Washington and Alaska, and offers nori-wrapped yellowfin tuna as well. (860/872-4200)
Max's Oyster Bar, West Hartford. "The Wondrous Hi-Rise of Shellfish" leads the way at this fashionable fishhouse, and the fried calamari keeps 'em coming back. (860/236-6299)
Elm Street Oyster House, Greenwich. Oyster lovers belly up to the bar for a half dozen or more bicoastal bivalves, pairing them with horseradish, cocktail or mignonette sauces. (203/629-5795)
Westbrook Lobster, Yalesville. Sit at the bar where the talented Rachel shucks your choices in front of you, or order the Raw Bar Combo (three Long Island littlenecks, three Mystic oysters, four shrimp with cocktail sauce) at your table. (203/265-5071). There's another Westbrook Lobster in Clinton (860/664-9464), but for some reason none in Westbrook.
Ocean Drive, South Norwalk. This oyster bar's Big Kahuna satisfies up to four surfers with a tier of shrimp, clams, mussels and oysters. Follow with a kettle of steamed littlenecks if you're still hungry. (203/855-1665)
CHOWDER
Rhode Island named its own chowder, which Connecticut timidly calls "clear broth chowder." Boston, and points north, claim "New England clam chowder," which Connecticut timidly calls "creamy clam chowder." Here are some chowders we might claim for our own.
Boom, Stonington and Westbrook. Tiny, tiny pieces of diced sweet potatoes in a classic creamy clam chowder add an intriguing depth and a bit of color to the often too-pale potage. They call it North Carolina chowder, but they don't have to. (860/535-2588 and 860/399-2322)
Edd's Place, Westbrook. A fistful of thyme, a generous helping of clams and a touch of sherry make this the memorable creamy chowder you'll drive miles to eat. Take it at a table by the water, with a slice of Mom's blueberry pie to follow. (860/399-9498)
Carmen Anthony Fishhouse and Steakhouse, Waterbury, Avon, New Haven, Woodbury, Wethersfield. Thick and creamy, this clam chowder is a perennial "Best of Connecticut" winner for good reason. (203/757-3040 [Waterbury])
Guilford Mooring, Guilford. Down at the town marina, chowder fans spoon up New England-style, watch the boats go by, look at the lobster tank and think of staying a few more hours. (203/458-2921)
Kitchen Little, Mystic. Made "from scratch" in a tiny kitchen, Flo's Rhode Island-style chowder features fresh ("never canned") local clams flavored with fresh basil and white pepper. Though KL is basically a breakfast place, many happily sit in its riverside rock garden and enjoy the chowder at all hours. (860/536-2122)
JoJo's Fish House, Danbury. Listed as "chowda" on the menu, this outstanding entry from a newcomer restaurant is creamier than Rhode Island style, thinner than New England style, with a peck of clams in every spoonful and a whiff of smoky bacon in every bowl. (203/746-0037)
Lenny's Indian Head Inn, Branford. Clear broth, bright flavor, a good balance of clams and potatoes-this winning family recipe is best savored on the deck overlooking the salt marsh. (203/488-1500)
Jasper White's Summer Shack, Mohegan Sun Casino. New England clam chowder by Boston's King of Seafood is a sure bet in these parts. (860/862-9500).
CHOWDER HINT:
When you order chowder from a takeout window, ask the server to scoop it from the bottom of the pot. Broth and potatoes rise to the top. Clams sink.
SPECIALTIES OF THE HOUSE
Have you tried . . .
Dover sole filleted tableside at Ocean 211 in Stamford. Served with lemon butter and caper sauce. Simple. Simply perfect. (203/973-0494)
Seafood Ambrosia-shrimp, scallops, crabmeat and cod under a buttery seafood stuffing-at S&P Oyster Co., where wide windows overlook the Mystic River bridge. Start with a couple of oyster shooters in the upstairs bar. (860/536-2674)
Seafood paella, topped with sofrito and served in a copper pot at Pacifico, New Haven. (203/772-4002)
Trout bleu or meuniere at Hopkins Inn, New Preston. Scooped live from the tank when you order, it's the closest thing to catching it yourself. (860/868-7295)
Swordfish Gorgonzola at Scribner's, Milford. On the menu for years, with very good reason. (203/878-7019)
Lobster soup at Carole Peck's Good News Cafe in Woodbury. It's rich and creamy, with huge chunks of lobster. (203/266-4663)
Seafood Portugais at No Fish Today in Hartford. A shellfish chorus over linguine. (860/244-2100)
Chowder Pot Platter at USS Chowder Pot III, Branford. The boat-sized fry-up for hungry landlubbers. (203/489-2356)
Beer-battered scrod and chips at Bill's Seafood Restaurant, by the "Singing Bridge" in Westbrook. (860/399-7224)
FISH MARKETS AND MORE
Stonington Seafood Harvesters, on the Town Dock, Stonington. A unique market. There's no staff, just an honor system that's worked for more than 30 years. Freezer cases hold scallops from the Stonington fleet's Patty Jo, local flounder, plus cod fillets, jumbo shrimp and halibut. Snatch your catch, slip cash or a check into the Money Slot. Make change from a box in one of the freezer cases. Patty Jo scallops and flounder are menu favorites at neighboring Boom-a couple of wharfs away in Dodson Boatyard. (860/535-8342)
Conte's Market & Grill, Westport. A fish market with history. Westport's Dean Conte is the fourth-generation scion of a family who've been combing New York's fish markets four times a week since 1894. Everything in the market is available in the restaurant-lemon sole, wild Alaskan salmon, yellowfin tuna, as well as everything on the handsome raw bar's "Grand Plateau." (203/226-3474)
Rowayton Seafood Market, Rowayton. On the banks of Five Mile River, next to the restaurant of the same name, this well-stocked seafood emporium has a side window for seafood bites. Take your steamed mussels, littlenecks on the half shell, or a hot and crispy clam roll up to the deck and ponder the market's trivia questions of the day, e.g., "Where are shrimps' hearts?" (203/838-7473)
Flanders Fish Market & Restaurant, East Lyme. A little fish market that grew like Topsy to include a large dining room and wrap-around decks, not to mention cooking classes and a cookbook by owner Paul Formica. Occasional exotica like wahoo or black sole from Holland appear in the display case; alligator, frog's legs, conch available on request. Stop in the restaurant for fish (pollack)-and-chips. Stock up on containers of lobster bisque, and chowders either clear or creamy. (860/739-8866)
Fjord Fisheries, Cos Cob. Fish market as summer destination. The owners here have their own Long Island Sound oyster beds to help fill display counters already crowded with East and West Coast seafood, plus the occasional Australian barramundi and Scandinavian kfraftor (crawfish) in season. The grocery section stocks Norwegian items (fiskeboller, gjetost), and fresh baguettes daily. Board one of the charter boats for onboard clambakes or Sunday brunch buffets. Sandy's Summer Stand in the back parking lot offers Connecticut-grown strawberries, blueberries, corn, tomatoes and so on, along with New Jersey produce to fill in the gaps. To top it all off, Mr. Kato's al fresco ramen stand is open on summer evenings, and his takeout sushi counter is just inside Fjord's side door.
Ah, sushi. That's a fish of another stripe . . . and a tale for another time.
